1. Intermediate
  2. Project 9 steps

Metal and polymer clay cuff links

Cuff links are a fashion statement for both men and women this season. Master the skill of soldering findings onto metal clay.
By Debbie Carlton

Debbie Carlton works from her studio in North West London where she offers introduction and advanced classes using metal clay (PMC and Art Clay Silver) and polymer clay in both small groups and one to one sessions. Gift vouchers are available for all her classes. Being able to solder findings onto metal clay is really useful, this skill opens up a whole range of new possibilities. In this project Debbie combines the creativity and scope of using metal clay and polymer clay with some technical know how. Utilise this technique to create not just cuff links but brooches, earrings and necklaces.

Tools & Materials

  • Metal clay (Art Clay Silver 650 or PMC3) approx. 15 grms
  • Non-stick mat
  • 1.5mm spacers or waxed playing cards
  • Calibrated cookie cutters or plastic stencil template, square
  • Roller
  • Badger balm or olive oil
  • Craft knife or needle tool
  • Sanding papers
  • Polishing papers
  • Stainless steel or agate burnisher
  • Tumbler (optional)
  • Flame retardant mat
  • Fire brick
  • Hand held torch
  • Brass brush
  • Small bowl of water
  • Cuff link findings (Cooksons No. NVU 101)
  • Hard solder
  • Liquid flux (Auroflux)
  • Cross locking tweezers, snips, fine tipped tweezers
  • Paint brush
  • Polymer clay inlay
  • 1/8 block of 3 different colours plus black of Fimo or Sculpey Premo
  • Pasta machine or roller
  • Latex gloves (optional)

Step 1

Making the cuff link bezel: Roll out and texture the metal clay using 1.5mm spacers or six cards thick. Using a cookie cutter or stencil template cut two square shapes. Texture and spread the smaller shape so it fits over the back of the hole. Allow the piece to dry and then attach them with slip. Dry the pieces thoroughly, sand and then fire them.

Step 2

Preparing the metal clay to solder: Metal clay is structurally a little more porous than other metals and it tends to soak up (absorb) more solder. It is really important to prepare the area to be soldered by burnishing it very well to close the pores in the metal.

Step 3

Preparing your workspace to solder: Make sure you have a well ventilated work space and ensure it is clear of all flammable materials. Have all your equipment ‘lined up’ and ready to use. It is useful if you can work in dim light i.e. draw curtains or blinds.

Step 4

Cuff link joints get a lot of wear and tear so in this project I am using hard solder. Cut tiny pieces of the solder strip (called pallions) and using tweezers, place them on to the back of the cuff links. Using a paint brush, apply flux to both the cuff link finding and the cuff link (where you have placed the pallions).

Step 5

Apply heat from the torch gently at first while the flux bubbles. Aim heat around the cuff link but not directly onto the solder. Hold the cuff link finding with cross-locking tweezers just above the join so it heats up slowly and evenly to soldering temperature.

Step 6

You are looking for the metal to turn a ‘dull orange’ colour. As soon as the solder starts to flow or shimmer, bring the 2 pieces together and hold in position. Turn off torch. Quench the piece in a bowl of water.

Step 7

The Sterling silver finding will have oxidised (turned black) and needs to be placed in a pickle solution. The pieces need to be rinsed very thoroughly to remove all traces of the pickle solution. Repeat for second piece then patinate and polish the cufflinks.

Step 8

Making the polymer clay inlay:Using a pasta machine on a thin setting, make 2/3 sheets of coloured clay. Cut into fine strips and arrange onto a background sheet rolled out on a medium setting and in a contrasting colour.

Step 9

Run through pasta machine, cut to fit and lay into the bezel. Wear latex gloves to avoid leaving finger prints on the clay. Bake as per recommended time and temperature. Your cuff links are ready to present to the lucky man (or woman) of your choice.

fashion tips

Wear these cuff links to secure the cuffs of a tailored shirt. Make them in a variety of colours and patterns. They are the perfect accessory for adding a stylish, designer look to an inexpensive blouse or shirt. If you are giving them as a gift, place them in a velvet pouch or lined jewellery box with a card indicating that they are handmade. A gift of handmade jewellery reflects just how much you care for the person that you are giving it to

Shirt £19.50, jeans £19.50 Marks & Spencer

Suede peeptoe shoe £59.99 Schuh

Venetian style jewellery boxes from £12.99 HomeSense

Resources

www.cooksongold.com: Sterling silver cufflink findings (stock no. NVU 101)
www.hswalsh.com: all equipment and tools for soldering
www.bellore.co.uk: both findings and equipment
www.metalclayacdemy.com: portal for metal clay info, videos/articles on soldering metal clay
www.squidoo.com/lensmasters/MSchindel: another great resource for metal clay enthusiasts

Contact

www.debbiecarltonjewellery.co.uk
info@debbiecarltonjewellery.co.uk Tel: 07978 978061