Fine silver gem set ring

Make this special occasion ring using precious metal clay and learn how to set a synthetic gemstone.
By Kimiko Ure

The Artist

Kimiko Ure

I am passionate about my jewellery and think of each individual item as a piece of art that can enrich life with its beauty. I take my inspiration from the shapes of flowers, the texture of leaves, and from shells. My aim is to make the wearer of my jewellery feel very special. Hopefully each piece will be timeless and personal.

Tools & Materials

  • Art Clay 650 slow dry 20g
  • Art Clay 650 syringe
  • Art Clay 650 paste
  • Pink man made gemstone
  • Acrylic roller
  • Cling wrap
  • Badger balm
  • Pair of spacers 1mm
  • Small sable brush
  • Flower cutter
  • Needle tool
  • Wooden ring mandrel
  • Ring mandrel holder
  • Teflon paper
  • Tweezers
  • Ring sizing papers
  • Rubber block
  • Sanding sponges
  • Stainless steel brush

Step 1

Take a syringe and make a walnut whip shape on Teflon paper, about two times larger than the stone you are going to use. The Teflon paper prevents the clay from sticking to it. Once dry the clay can be easily lifted off.

Step 2

Place the stone in the middle of the wet clay with tweezers and lightly push the stone down into the clay with the tip of your tweezers. Take your needle tool and poke marks around in your clay and leave to dry. See the ‘designer tips’ for cutting the flower, shaping the petals and for preparing the ring mandrel.

Step 3

To make the ring band, wrap clay around the mandrel until the strip overlaps. Cut the overlapped clay and remove the excess. Moisten the cut edges with water and press to join, then leave to dry.

Step 4

Once dry gently sand all the pieces. Lay the small stone set piece of clay onto the centre of the flower, use a thin slip of paste to join the pieces. Press lightly to join the pieces together and leave to dry

Step 5

Take the syringe and on the top of the ring band make a small line of clay and attach the flower shape, press lightly to join the two pieces together and leave to dry. Fire the ring on a kiln shelf at 1600°F for ten minutes or torch fire the ring. Leave the piece to cool down for about 20 minutes.

Step 6

Finish your piece with the stainless steel brush and soapy water. You can use a burnisher to achieve a high shine or if you have a tumble polisher you can use that to finish your piece.

how to wear your jewellery

This feminine ring is perfect for special occasion dressing and both formal and informal functions. It could be made and given as a gift, or as an engagement or commitment ring. Compliment this beautiful piece with floral prints and embroidered dresses or blouses to enhance the romantic look. Further accessorise with bow trimmed shoes and handbags

Floral print dress

£28 Sainsbury’s Tu Clothing

Patent bow heel

£12 Matalan

Earrings

£10 EB by Erickson Beamon at Debenhams

Kimiko's tips

  • Rub badger balm on your tools and hands, and role out the clay to about 1 or 2mm thick. Using the cutters cut out your flower shape and gently remove the excess clay. Put the excess clay in the packet to prevent it from drying out
  • Take the needle tool to make petal marks on the flower shape or press a rose leaf to the clay for a natural look.
  • I have pinched up my petals to give a more natural shape to the flower and left it to dry on Teflon paper
  • To prepare the mandrel for making the ring, measure and mark the ring size on ring paper. Make the ring 3 sizes larger than the desired size as it will shrink once fired. Stick the marked ring paper to the mandrel with craft tape

Resources

All tools and materials used in this project are available from SilverClay (http://www.silverclay.co.uk, 01929 477 137)

Visit Kimiko’s website to find out more about her work www.morosilver.co.uk